Iceland is one of the most dramatic countries I have ever seen. From glaciers and volcanoes to endless waterfalls and black sand beaches, the landscape feels unreal at times.
This trip was extra special for me because it was my first international trip ever. Iceland is probably not the most conventional choice for a first trip, but the moment I saw photos of the Northern Lights, glaciers, and erupting volcanoes, I knew I had to experience it with my own eyes.
We visited Iceland in late September 2023 (25 Sep – 9 Oct), during the shoulder season. This meant fewer crowds, decent weather, enough daylight for road trips, and a real chance of seeing the Northern Lights.
From a car breakdown in the middle of nowhere to chasing the Northern Lights until the very end, this trip had everything. It was exhausting, unpredictable, and absolutely worth it.
Trip Overview with Practical Details
Below is a quick overview of the trip and a few practical details that might help if you’re planning something similar. I travelled with three friends from India, so cost estimates are for four people and references are from that perspective.
Route
We drove across Iceland in a loop starting from Keflavík International Airport, covering the Ring Road in an anti-clockwise direction with a few detours.
Although we could have driven clockwise, this route allowed us to cover many of the famous spots in the first few days. It kept the excitement high early on and set the tone for the rest of the trip.
Iceland has right-hand driving (opposite to India) but it was much easier to drive here since everyone follows the traffic rules and having an automatic car helped with this. It just took driving for a few kms to get adjusted with it.
Flight and visa
We booked our flights 4–5 months in advance. There were no direct flights from India, so we flew with a layover in Amsterdam.
Iceland is part of the Schengen area, so we applied for a Schengen visa through Iceland. The process was straightforward, and it took around 2–3 weeks for all of us to receive our visas.
Car
We had booked a manual 4×4 SUV from icerental4x4.is but we got an automatic instead which was honestly really helpful.
A 4×4 isn’t necessary unless you plan to drive on F-roads.
We strongly recommend getting full insurance. It covered almost everything, and we were glad we had it when our car broke down. We didn’t have to pay anything out of pocket.
There was no need for an International Driving Permit. We were able to rent the car using our Indian driving licenses since they were in English.
Fuel
Fuel was expensive and cost us around INR 64,000 for the entire trip. Unlike India, we had to fill the tanks ourselves, which took some getting used to.
At most fuel stations, payment is done directly at the pump using a credit card. Each transaction places a temporary hold on the card, which is released after a few days.
Make sure you have enough credit limit and carry multiple cards, as not all cards work at every pump. For us, IDFC First Wealth worked the most consistently.
Accommodation
We booked all of our stays via booking.com. It was a mix of hostels, guesthouses, apartments or cabins. All of them had a private/shared kitchen so we could prepare our meals (breakfast and dinner) on our own.
Connectivity
We had gotten a wifi device with unlimited internet with the car rental which worked great for us. Most of the stays had a free wifi.
📱 It’s best to have at least one device with cellular calling, as there may be situations with no internet. This happened to us when our car broke down.
Food
On most of the days we resorted to making our own meals for breakfast and dinner. And had something from gas stations for lunch. Since eating out is expensive and we were a bit on budget. Also the vegetarian options are limited so we carried a few ready to cook food items with us for the days when you miss that taste of Indian food.
The unexpected highlight for me was Icelandic hotdogs. We had one almost every day.
Experiences
One of the best things about Iceland is that nature is largely free to experience. Most places don’t have an entry fee, though you may need to pay for parking at some locations. We booked two paid experiences: an ice cave tour and a whale watching tour. Unfortunately, the whale watching tour was cancelled due to bad weather 🥲
Overall cost
The entire trip cost us approximately INR 2.85 lakh per person. Below is a per-person cost breakdown:
- Flights : 79K
- Visa : 10K
- Car + insurance : 26.5K
- Fuel : 16K
- Groceries : 7.5K
- Eating out : 29K
- Stay : 61K
- Experiences : 19K
- Shopping : 27K
- Other expenses : 8K
Day wise itinerary
Day 1 – Arrival in Iceland
We landed at Keflavík International Airport in the evening after a long journey from India. After exchanging a small amount of cash to ISK (which we barely ended up using), we picked up our rental car and stepped into Iceland for the first time.
Even the drive out of the airport felt dramatic. Wide open landscapes, endless skies, and soft evening light welcomed us in a way that immediately set the tone for the trip. Somehow, Icelandic parking lots seem to have the best sunset views.
Since it had already been a long travel day, we drove straight to our stay near Selfoss and rested up for the days ahead.
Day 2 – Golden Circle and First Taste of Icelandic Weather
This was the first real day of exploring Iceland. Our first stop was Kerið Crater, and within minutes we got a taste of Iceland’s unpredictable weather. Strong winds, sudden rain, and rapidly changing skies became the theme of the day. So we quickly put on our waterproof gear and went about our day.
We continued through the Golden Circle, visiting Geysir and the surrounding geothermal area, followed by Gullfoss. The wind at Gullfoss was so intense it felt like the waterfall itself was pushing back.
Although it was meant to be a short driving day, we kept stopping along the way and ended up spending most of the day simply soaking in the landscape.
We returned to the same stay near Selfoss for the night.
Day 3 – Waterfall Trail Along the South Coast
We checked out in the morning and started driving east along the South Coast. While the distance to our next stay in Steinar was short, the number of stops along the way made this a full and rewarding day.
Our first stop was Ægissíðufoss near Hella, a quieter waterfall that offered a calm start to the day. We then continued to Seljalandsfoss, one of Iceland’s most famous waterfalls, where you can walk behind the cascading water.
Just a short walk away was Gljúfrabúi, a hidden waterfall tucked inside a narrow gorge. It’s easy to miss, but it turned out to be one of the most memorable stops of the day.
We checked into our stay later in the evening. With some daylight still left, we briefly drove to Skógafoss, found it crowded, and decided to return early the next morning instead.
Day 4 – Skógafoss, Black Sand Beaches, and Coastal Views
We started the day early, packed some coffee and breakfast, and headed straight to Skógafoss. As expected, we had the place almost to ourselves. We climbed to the top for panoramic views, then enjoyed breakfast while watching the powerful waterfall.
After a strong start, we continued further south to visit the plane wreck at Sólheimasandur, the black sand beach at Reynisfjara, and nearby coastal viewpoints.
Tip: Be cautious of sneaker waves at Reynisfjara. Always read the warning signs and keep a safe distance from the water.
We wrapped up the day by watching the sunset from Dyrhólaey Viewpoint, with sweeping views of the coastline and rock formations. It was a long but incredibly scenic day.
Day 5 – Canyons, Lava Fields, and Mossy Landscapes
This day involved a longer drive as we explored areas further east while staying at the same location. We visited Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, followed by the nearby Yoda Cave.
The drive itself was just as memorable as the destinations. Vast lava fields covered in thick green moss stretched endlessly on both sides of the road, a landscape unique to Iceland and unlike anything we had seen before.
We returned to our stay by evening after a relaxed but visually stunning day.
Day 6 – Ice Cave Adventure at Vatnajökull National Park
This was easily the most epic day of the trip. We checked out early and drove towards Vatnajökull National Park for our pre-booked ice cave tour.
At the meeting point, we boarded a massive off-road vehicle that took us across rough terrain to the glacier. The ride itself felt like an adventure.
Fun Fact
This location was used to film scenes set on Mann’s Planet in Interstellar.
Inside the ice cave, we witnessed breathtaking shades of deep blue ice, shaped naturally by time and pressure. It was one of the most surreal experiences of the entire trip.
After the tour, worsening weather forced us to skip Diamond Beach. We continued driving to Höfn, where we checked into our stay for the night.
Day 7 – Coastal Drives and Eastern Fjords
We began the day by exploring Höfn, a small coastal town with peaceful seaside views. After a relaxed morning, we continued driving north along the Ring Road.
Along the way, we stopped at Vestrahorn Mountain and the nearby Viking Village, both offering dramatic mountain and coastal scenery.
We followed the Ring Road toward Egilsstaðir, enjoying scenic coastal stretches before taking a detour to Seyðisfjörður, where we stayed the night. The town sits in a narrow valley and is known for its colorful houses and the iconic Seyðisfjarðarkirkja church with the rainbow path.
Day 8 – Weather, Breakdowns, and Hot Springs
We planned to visit Stuðlagil Canyon and Dettifoss, but Iceland had other plans. Heavy rain set in by the time we reached the canyon, and shortly after, our car broke down in the middle of nowhere with no internet connectivity.
We contacted our rental provider, who guided us to a repair shop near Mývatn. Thanks to full insurance coverage, all repairs were taken care of, and we were given a replacement car for the day.
After an exhausting and stressful day, we checked into our stay near Mývatn and ended the night relaxing in a hot tub.
Day 9 – Geothermal Wonders of Mývatn
The day started with disappointing news as our whale-watching tour was cancelled due to bad weather. We picked up our repaired car and decided to explore the Mývatn region instead.
This area is rich in geothermal activity and filming locations from Game of Thrones, particularly scenes set north of the Wall. We visited Krafla Viti Crater and Grjótagjá Cave, famously associated with Jon Snow and Ygritte.
Later, we continued towards Akureyri, stopping at Goðafoss, the “Waterfall of the Gods.” We reached Akureyri by evening and enjoyed a relaxed night out with great food and drinks.
Day 10 – Akureyri to the Northwest
We spent the morning exploring Akureyri, a vibrant and colorful town especially beautiful in autumn. Despite wanting to stay longer, we continued westward along the Ring Road.
No matter how much we loved this town and wanted to spend more time we had to continue on our journey ahead.
We made several stops along the way, including Víðimýrarkirkja (Turf Church), Þingeyraklausturskirkja, and Hvítserkur, each offering a different glimpse into Iceland’s landscapes and history.
We stayed the night in the quiet town of Borðeyri.
Day 11 – Kirkjufell and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
This was a relatively calm day. We took a detour toward Ólafsvík, exploring parts of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
We visited the iconic Kirkjufell Mountain and wandered through nearby towns, discovering colorful streets and peaceful coastal views. We stayed overnight in Ólafsvík.
Day 12 – Toward Reykjavík and Northern Lights
As the trip neared its end, we began driving toward Reykjavík. The day started with great coffee at a local café, followed by a stop at Búðakirkja, the famous black church.
We reached Reykjavík by evening, checked into our stay, and explored the city center, including Hallgrímskirkja.
That night offered promising conditions for the Northern Lights. After resting briefly, we headed out into the cold and, after a long wait, finally witnessed the aurora dancing across the sky around 1 AM.
Day 13, 14 and 15 – Rest, Reflection, and Departure
By this point, the exhaustion had fully caught up with us. Day 13 was spent resting and slowly exploring Reykjavík in the evening.
On Day 14, we visited Sky Lagoon instead of the Blue Lagoon to avoid crowds, offering a peaceful and relaxing way to end the trip.
Soon after, it was time to return the car, head to the airport, and fly back home, bringing an unforgettable Icelandic journey to an end.
What would I do differently
Iceland is incredible in every season, but next time I would like to visit during summer to experience the midnight sun, or in spring for a different perspective of the landscapes. I would also pack better layers and waterproof gear. While we carried enough clothing, it wasn’t well planned to work together, which made some days less comfortable than they needed to be.
Closing thoughts
Will I visit Iceland again? Absolutely. Iceland has a special place in my heart, and this trip completely changed how I experience nature and travel. I have never felt so small, yet so full, at the same time.
If you enjoy long drives, unpredictable weather, and landscapes that constantly make you stop and stare, Iceland will reward you in ways few places can.
I hope this helps you plan your own trip, and I hope Iceland leaves you with stories as unforgettable as it gave me.